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A touch of joy @fran90210 #picoftheday #bluewater #franmillerphotography

A touch of joy @fran90210 #picoftheday #bluewater #franmillerphotography

Underwater Love @stephanelacasa #makingwavesofchange #underwaterphotography #bluegym

Underwater Love @stephanelacasa #makingwavesofchange #underwaterphotography #bluegym

Sunday morning blues #surf #surfing #wave #ocean #paradise #picoftheday πŸ“Έ@shaynenienaber

Sunday morning blues #surf #surfing #wave #ocean #paradise #picoftheday πŸ“Έ@shaynenienaber

Wilmar Melindo pictured by @gapssabuero caught between fish and bird underneath a Cloud Nine roller on Siargao, The Philippines. In the early 1990s John Callahan at @surfexplore headed an expedition to Siargao with Evan Slater and Taylor Knox. They scored pristine waves during the typhoon season. The Cloud 9 chocolate bars that re-fuelled the team after hours of mind-blowing crystal caverns in tropical heat took on such delicious symbolism that Callahan named the wave after them. When the project formed the cover feature in a 1993 issue of Surfing magazine, the surf world collectively opened their eyes to the wave potential here. Consequently Siargao became a capital of surfing in the Philippines, providing a mainstay for local businesses #cloudnine #makingwavesofchange

Wilmar Melindo pictured by @gapssabuero caught between fish and bird underneath a Cloud Nine roller on Siargao, The Philippines. In the early 1990s John Callahan at @surfexplore headed an expedition to Siargao with Evan Slater and Taylor Knox. They scored pristine waves during the typhoon season. The Cloud 9 chocolate bars that re-fuelled the team after hours of mind-blowing crystal caverns in tropical heat took on such delicious symbolism that Callahan named the wave after them. When the project formed the cover feature in a 1993 issue of Surfing magazine, the surf world collectively opened their eyes to the wave potential here. Consequently Siargao became a capital of surfing in the Philippines, providing a mainstay for local businesses #cloudnine #makingwavesofchange

Water will mesmerize at any and every level. Here master Brazilian photographer @freddycerdeira shows us the majestic underbelly of a blue water beast #blue #water #waves

Water will mesmerize at any and every level. Here master Brazilian photographer @freddycerdeira shows us the majestic underbelly of a blue water beast #blue #water #waves

Great article "Surf Parks: Accessible for All" by Jon Richards, Therapuetic Recreational Therapist for the City of San Diego, in @surfparkmagazine exploring the features that should be discussed when designing and bringing to life a surf park project so that everybody can celebrate, with an equally great image by @cc_ccroberts from @adaptivesurfing . Jon writes, “For the last ten years the popularity of adaptive surfing has grown so much that it has broken through the barriers and become a mainstay of adaptive sports. Surfing has an opportunity to rise above, where other sports have not. It has a moral obligation to cultivate accessibility when constructing surf parks and wave pools. Think about it for a minute. We want to build surf parks to help develop the sport of surfing and if we make parks accessible to anyone, then we are doing a great justice to the development of the sport and the people who participate. Constructing an accessible surf park benefits everyone. You should not think of it as beneficial to just a particular population, but an opportunity to provide value for all who use the park. It improves the ease of access to a sport that is rapidly growing in popularity. This is true for people with and without disabilities, kids, senior citizens, beginners and so many more.” #adaptivesurfing #makingwavesofchange #thewave

Great article "Surf Parks: Accessible for All" by Jon Richards, Therapuetic Recreational Therapist for the City of San Diego, in @surfparkmagazine exploring the features that should be discussed when designing and bringing to life a surf park project so that everybody can celebrate, with an equally great image by @cc_ccroberts from @adaptivesurfing . Jon writes, “For the last ten years the popularity of adaptive surfing has grown so much that it has broken through the barriers and become a mainstay of adaptive sports. Surfing has an opportunity to rise above, where other sports have not. It has a moral obligation to cultivate accessibility when constructing surf parks and wave pools. Think about it for a minute. We want to build surf parks to help develop the sport of surfing and if we make parks accessible to anyone, then we are doing a great justice to the development of the sport and the people who participate. Constructing an accessible surf park benefits everyone. You should not think of it as beneficial to just a particular population, but an opportunity to provide value for all who use the park. It improves the ease of access to a sport that is rapidly growing in popularity. This is true for people with and without disabilities, kids, senior citizens, beginners and so many more.” #adaptivesurfing #makingwavesofchange #thewave

Clean crisp barrels on demand, that's always been the dream and now it's a reality... #thewave #makingwavesofchange with @wavegarden_official

Clean crisp barrels on demand, that's always been the dream and now it's a reality... #thewave #makingwavesofchange with @wavegarden_official

Behind blown glass, captured by the brilliantly @matt_burgess_photo #makingwavesofchange #fortheloveofwaterbreaking #surfscapes

Behind blown glass, captured by the brilliantly @matt_burgess_photo #makingwavesofchange #fortheloveofwaterbreaking #surfscapes

Spot the board #surf #surfing #wipeout #beach #paradise #love #igers Photo: @kap.sanderson

Spot the board #surf #surfing #wipeout #beach #paradise #love #igers Photo: @kap.sanderson

Inside the dream factory @namotu #makingwavesofchange

Inside the dream factory @namotu #makingwavesofchange

How perfect? TAG a friend you would love to surf this with... πŸ“ΈFlores/Dapena

#surfing #surf #picoftheday #makingwavesofchange #love #paradise #beach #ocean #igers

How perfect? TAG a friend you would love to surf this with... πŸ“ΈFlores/Dapena #surfing #surf #picoftheday #makingwavesofchange #love #paradise #beach #ocean #igers

How perfect is this #wave and #photo by @baleixophoto ? πŸ’₯πŸ€™πŸ½ #picoftheday #instafood #instagram #followforfollow #amazing #healthy #surfporn #nature #cool #instagood #vsco #love #igers #funny #swag #night #beautiful #workout #like4like #webstagram #bestoftheday #blackandwhite #instafollow #ootd #me

How perfect is this #wave and #photo by @baleixophoto ? πŸ’₯πŸ€™πŸ½ #picoftheday #instafood #instagram #followforfollow #amazing #healthy #surfporn #nature #cool #instagood #vsco #love #igers #funny #swag #night #beautiful #workout #like4like #webstagram #bestoftheday #blackandwhite #instafollow #ootd #me

πŸ‘πŸ½ @chris.whitey stunning shot #surf #love #wave #surfing #followme

πŸ‘πŸ½ @chris.whitey stunning shot #surf #love #wave #surfing #followme

Wave after Wave @thewave more footage coming shortly, make sure you follow us on the journey πŸ’₯πŸ€›πŸ½πŸŒŠ #thewave #makingwavesofchange #surf #surfing #carvemag

Wave after Wave @thewave more footage coming shortly, make sure you follow us on the journey πŸ’₯πŸ€›πŸ½πŸŒŠ #thewave #makingwavesofchange #surf #surfing #carvemag

A screaming beauty caught by @mitchparkinson and video footage snagged by @jesselittlephoto #surf #videooftheday #picoftheday #instagram #surfing #makingwavesofchange

A screaming beauty caught by @mitchparkinson and video footage snagged by @jesselittlephoto #surf #videooftheday #picoftheday #instagram #surfing #makingwavesofchange

Breathtaking shot by @thurstonphoto Go check his page out for some class photography. #picoftheday #instagood #ocean #paradise

Breathtaking shot by @thurstonphoto Go check his page out for some class photography. #picoftheday #instagood #ocean #paradise

@matthuttonphotography snapped this magic moment in Kalbarri, Western Australia on his Canon 5D. “There wasn’t much planning put into this shot. I chose a subject, and focused on him and kept shooting until we were both very surprised by a photobombing dolphin. The shot was taken hand-held, about 100-200 metres off the beach. I walked out on a spot that overlooks the surfers, and followed the waves back into the beach. That’s why it looks like the photo was taken on a boat—which every one thinks it was—but I was actually standing on some rocks. The guy in the photo was a stranger at the time. But now I know that his name is Trent Sherborne, a school teacher in Kalbarri. I contacted him by phone, and sent him a free large print of his semi-famous shot! Trent explained to me that he has never experienced anything quite like this while surfing. His exact words were, ‘It’s not everyday you get to eyeball a dolphin while surfing.’ I’ve had people contact me, saying how I could pass this off as real, and that it’s obviously Photoshopped. I think Trent Sherborne will disagree. I only did very little post-processing. I simply adjusted contrast, as I was using such a long focal length. I added a bit of sharpness, and brought back a little detail in the dolphin by reducing some of the shadows. At the end of the day, this photo hangs proudly in my home, and that is all that matters to me!” #naturerules #dolphins #waves #sealife #makingwavesofchange

@matthuttonphotography snapped this magic moment in Kalbarri, Western Australia on his Canon 5D. “There wasn’t much planning put into this shot. I chose a subject, and focused on him and kept shooting until we were both very surprised by a photobombing dolphin. The shot was taken hand-held, about 100-200 metres off the beach. I walked out on a spot that overlooks the surfers, and followed the waves back into the beach. That’s why it looks like the photo was taken on a boat—which every one thinks it was—but I was actually standing on some rocks. The guy in the photo was a stranger at the time. But now I know that his name is Trent Sherborne, a school teacher in Kalbarri. I contacted him by phone, and sent him a free large print of his semi-famous shot! Trent explained to me that he has never experienced anything quite like this while surfing. His exact words were, ‘It’s not everyday you get to eyeball a dolphin while surfing.’ I’ve had people contact me, saying how I could pass this off as real, and that it’s obviously Photoshopped. I think Trent Sherborne will disagree. I only did very little post-processing. I simply adjusted contrast, as I was using such a long focal length. I added a bit of sharpness, and brought back a little detail in the dolphin by reducing some of the shadows. At the end of the day, this photo hangs proudly in my home, and that is all that matters to me!” #naturerules #dolphins #waves #sealife #makingwavesofchange

F-O-L-L-O-W 
@lukeshadbolt 
One of the greatest seascape photos of all time.

#surf #surfing #ocean #picoftheday  #instagram #instagood #paradise #wave

F-O-L-L-O-W @lukeshadbolt One of the greatest seascape photos of all time. #surf #surfing #ocean #picoftheday #instagram #instagood #paradise #wave

If you’ve had the pleasure of watching Australian Mark ‘Mono’ Stewart surf or compete, you’ll know he’s a special talent – fast, ferocious in the tube and above the lip, and two times ISA World Adaptive Champion. His drive and determination is infectious. Aged 15 Mark was diagnosed with osteosarcoma - bone cancer. Following extensive chemotherapy, his right leg had to be removed above the knee. Already a Byron Bay regular he started working out how to keep surfing. “I got on a boogie board and surfed for a few years. Then I wrote a letter to Tracks Magazine asking if there was anyone who could help me out. A chap called Ronnie Fiddler – an amputee from Cronulla – gave me a shout. He surfed and had developed a knee well in one side of his board. I went around and met him and it all started from there.” Later in life Mark’s mum let him know that when he was originally treated for cancer doctors had told his parents he had two years to live. In 2015, aged 53, now married and with three kids, Mark won the inaugural ISA World Adaptive Championships in La Jolla, California. He successfully defended his world title last year, and is stronger than ever. “Surfing’s kept me alive and kept me inspired - it’s good for the body as well as the soul. It’s such a leveller. You can surf with people and they don’t even realise you’ve got one leg until you get out of the water. I had a young boy come up to me in Indonesia not long ago who told me ‘if I ever lose a leg, I want to surf just like you’. It was like wow, pretty heart-wrenching stuff.” Reflecting on the 2016 ISA Adaptive Championships, Mark said, “I have seen so much progression in our sport this year with the amount of young people coming up and taking on what the older surfers are teaching them." Mark is most excited about "getting our youth involved now so when we get in the Paralympics we will be ready to show the world what can be done." ISA president Fernando Aguerre said "the passion and energy of these surfers is second to none. We finish the contest knowing that the sport of adaptive surfing has taken a huge step forward and will continue to spread joy to the lives of others around the world." #adaptivesurfing

If you’ve had the pleasure of watching Australian Mark ‘Mono’ Stewart surf or compete, you’ll know he’s a special talent – fast, ferocious in the tube and above the lip, and two times ISA World Adaptive Champion. His drive and determination is infectious. Aged 15 Mark was diagnosed with osteosarcoma - bone cancer. Following extensive chemotherapy, his right leg had to be removed above the knee. Already a Byron Bay regular he started working out how to keep surfing. “I got on a boogie board and surfed for a few years. Then I wrote a letter to Tracks Magazine asking if there was anyone who could help me out. A chap called Ronnie Fiddler – an amputee from Cronulla – gave me a shout. He surfed and had developed a knee well in one side of his board. I went around and met him and it all started from there.” Later in life Mark’s mum let him know that when he was originally treated for cancer doctors had told his parents he had two years to live. In 2015, aged 53, now married and with three kids, Mark won the inaugural ISA World Adaptive Championships in La Jolla, California. He successfully defended his world title last year, and is stronger than ever. “Surfing’s kept me alive and kept me inspired - it’s good for the body as well as the soul. It’s such a leveller. You can surf with people and they don’t even realise you’ve got one leg until you get out of the water. I had a young boy come up to me in Indonesia not long ago who told me ‘if I ever lose a leg, I want to surf just like you’. It was like wow, pretty heart-wrenching stuff.” Reflecting on the 2016 ISA Adaptive Championships, Mark said, “I have seen so much progression in our sport this year with the amount of young people coming up and taking on what the older surfers are teaching them." Mark is most excited about "getting our youth involved now so when we get in the Paralympics we will be ready to show the world what can be done." ISA president Fernando Aguerre said "the passion and energy of these surfers is second to none. We finish the contest knowing that the sport of adaptive surfing has taken a huge step forward and will continue to spread joy to the lives of others around the world." #adaptivesurfing

Life on the edge. This incredible image was taken by Jeff Hobson @jeffhobsonphotography in Coos Bay, Oregon #ragingsea #pacificocean #wildwater

Life on the edge. This incredible image was taken by Jeff Hobson @jeffhobsonphotography in Coos Bay, Oregon #ragingsea #pacificocean #wildwater

Wave after Wave. #wavegarden #wavepool #thewave #surf #surfing ##makingwavesofchange

Wave after Wave. #wavegarden #wavepool #thewave #surf #surfing ##makingwavesofchange

Icelandic slab in all its glory captured by @kahlstrom #iceland #coldcalling #sunburst

Icelandic slab in all its glory captured by @kahlstrom #iceland #coldcalling #sunburst

Powerful image of Venezuelan surfer Alfonso Mendoza setting the pace at the inaugural @isasurfing World Adaptive Championships back in 2015 in La Jolla California taken by @ephcto . The momentum right now with adaptive surfing is extremely exciting, including the recent launch of a specialist magazine @adaptivesurfing and the annual growth of the ISA event to promote a sustainable and successful future for adaptive surfing. ISA President Fernando Aguerre says, “these athletes are an inspiration to all, and each one of them has a unique story of courage and perseverance.” These are the power surfers of the future. Be inspired #adaptivesurfing #thewave

Powerful image of Venezuelan surfer Alfonso Mendoza setting the pace at the inaugural @isasurfing World Adaptive Championships back in 2015 in La Jolla California taken by @ephcto . The momentum right now with adaptive surfing is extremely exciting, including the recent launch of a specialist magazine @adaptivesurfing and the annual growth of the ISA event to promote a sustainable and successful future for adaptive surfing. ISA President Fernando Aguerre says, “these athletes are an inspiration to all, and each one of them has a unique story of courage and perseverance.” These are the power surfers of the future. Be inspired #adaptivesurfing #thewave

1,000 waves an hour of pure stoke. Coming to The Wave Bristol and The Wave London. @wavegarden_official have designed our perfect technology and we know it's going to transform the lives of so many people 🌊πŸ’₯πŸ€›πŸ½ #surf #surfing #picoftheday #instagood #wavegarden #thewave

1,000 waves an hour of pure stoke. Coming to The Wave Bristol and The Wave London. @wavegarden_official have designed our perfect technology and we know it's going to transform the lives of so many people 🌊πŸ’₯πŸ€›πŸ½ #surf #surfing #picoftheday #instagood #wavegarden #thewave

@josh_kerr84 on a peachy looking #Wavegarden Wave. Coming to London and Bristol! Sign up above to find out more. Link in Bio.πŸ€™πŸ½ #surf #surfing #Inland #picoftheday #instagood

@josh_kerr84 on a peachy looking #Wavegarden Wave. Coming to London and Bristol! Sign up above to find out more. Link in Bio.πŸ€™πŸ½ #surf #surfing #Inland #picoftheday #instagood

This is going to be so much fun. #surf #surfing #inland #beginners #groms

This is going to be so much fun. #surf #surfing #inland #beginners #groms

So here is he big reveal from @wavegarden_official and our big news is that this is coming to Bristol and London. #surf #surfing #inland #wavegarden #thewave

So here is he big reveal from @wavegarden_official and our big news is that this is coming to Bristol and London. #surf #surfing #inland #wavegarden #thewave

The Wave Bristol & London #wavegarden #thewave #cove #surf #surfing #inland

The Wave Bristol & London #wavegarden #thewave #cove #surf #surfing #inland

Natural gas inside the wave lamp @russellordphoto #glowingwater #blue #green #gold #waves

Natural gas inside the wave lamp @russellordphoto #glowingwater #blue #green #gold #waves

Californian stylemaster CJ Nelson has just won the @mexilogfest @joeljitsu Vans Duct Tape on the sizzling long left point at Saladita in scintillating form. CJ has a house just in front, so knows the wave intimately. “I have a real connection with Mexico. I think Mexico has everything you need as a surfer and my trips there have been spiritual and life changing.” CJ is one of the best noseriders ever, switching seamlessly between regular and goofyfoot fives and tens with jaw-dropping ability. In fact, Joel Tudor describes his skills on the nose as being “from another level.” In a brilliant interview by Glenn Sakamoto for @liquidsalt , reflecting on his surfing youth in Santa Cruz, CJ recalls “going on a surf with my father to Rincon around 1983. The afternoon we got there, the tide was super low and the sand was perfect. My dad put me on a 7'11" Haut egg. That was the first time I ever trimmed down a point. I remember the cold clear water rushing under the nose of that red Haut. I remember feeling real speed for the first time. That was the day that I started to really understand surfing. When I was super young, all I really knew was my dad’s surfing so he was a major influence on me. He would switch from a 5'2" fish to a 9'6" D fin pig all in one session. He definitely kept my mind open to all boards and kept ‘fun’ the number one priority in surfing.” Discussing noseriding, CJ says, “I always had a knack for noseriding. I grew up riding all of Dad’s old logs so I learned about inertia and glide when I was young. I think the pivotal time for me was when I was learning how to skate switch in the late ‘90s. That’s when I started to apply my switch skate approach to noseriding. I learned how to do it in Santa Cruz, but perfected it at Malibu. It was weird because I had never seen anyone do it so I had nobody to look at or learn from. I just did it over and over until I got it. It wasn't pretty at first, but after I learned it, noseriding in general and in my regular stance was really easy. I think it was my skateboarding mentality and skateboarding work ethic that made it possible. Try something over and over until you get it clean." #practicemakesperfect

Californian stylemaster CJ Nelson has just won the @mexilogfest @joeljitsu Vans Duct Tape on the sizzling long left point at Saladita in scintillating form. CJ has a house just in front, so knows the wave intimately. “I have a real connection with Mexico. I think Mexico has everything you need as a surfer and my trips there have been spiritual and life changing.” CJ is one of the best noseriders ever, switching seamlessly between regular and goofyfoot fives and tens with jaw-dropping ability. In fact, Joel Tudor describes his skills on the nose as being “from another level.” In a brilliant interview by Glenn Sakamoto for @liquidsalt , reflecting on his surfing youth in Santa Cruz, CJ recalls “going on a surf with my father to Rincon around 1983. The afternoon we got there, the tide was super low and the sand was perfect. My dad put me on a 7'11" Haut egg. That was the first time I ever trimmed down a point. I remember the cold clear water rushing under the nose of that red Haut. I remember feeling real speed for the first time. That was the day that I started to really understand surfing. When I was super young, all I really knew was my dad’s surfing so he was a major influence on me. He would switch from a 5'2" fish to a 9'6" D fin pig all in one session. He definitely kept my mind open to all boards and kept ‘fun’ the number one priority in surfing.” Discussing noseriding, CJ says, “I always had a knack for noseriding. I grew up riding all of Dad’s old logs so I learned about inertia and glide when I was young. I think the pivotal time for me was when I was learning how to skate switch in the late ‘90s. That’s when I started to apply my switch skate approach to noseriding. I learned how to do it in Santa Cruz, but perfected it at Malibu. It was weird because I had never seen anyone do it so I had nobody to look at or learn from. I just did it over and over until I got it. It wasn't pretty at first, but after I learned it, noseriding in general and in my regular stance was really easy. I think it was my skateboarding mentality and skateboarding work ethic that made it possible. Try something over and over until you get it clean." #practicemakesperfect

The future of inland surfing is here... wave after wave. Together with @wavegarden_official we are bringing surfing inland for people of all ages, backgrounds and abilities. #makingwavesofchange #surf #inland #wavepool 
Here’s a sneak preview of the Wavegarden Cove, a new generation surf facility capable of producing up to 1000 waves per hour. The test pilot is Norman Landa, a local surfer from San Sebastian in Spain, getting a few clean barrels at the demo center. Stay tuned for the official launch: May 10, 2017.

The future of inland surfing is here... wave after wave. Together with @wavegarden_official we are bringing surfing inland for people of all ages, backgrounds and abilities. #makingwavesofchange #surf #inland #wavepool Here’s a sneak preview of the Wavegarden Cove, a new generation surf facility capable of producing up to 1000 waves per hour. The test pilot is Norman Landa, a local surfer from San Sebastian in Spain, getting a few clean barrels at the demo center. Stay tuned for the official launch: May 10, 2017.

Sunburst light crystals with the lens flair of @pogphotog #sunburst #lightdance #wavescape #edenpogonoskiphoto

Sunburst light crystals with the lens flair of @pogphotog #sunburst #lightdance #wavescape #edenpogonoskiphoto

Eve Fletcher (80 in this picture…now approaching 90) at San Onofre, photographed by Rick Rickman for his book ‘The Wonder Years: Portraits of Athletes Who Never Slow Down’. Eve moved with her family to the San Fernando Valley at age 10 and became an excellent swimmer. She worked at Disney's Ink & Paint department, contributing to ‘Cinderella’ and ‘Alice in Wonderland’ and ultimately became an animation supervisor for Disney. Eve started surfing age 30. She soon met the legendary Marge Calhoun, and asked for some advice. "You just paddle and then stand up," said Marge. Eve soon travelled to Hawaii, became a member of the San Onofre Surf Club and a Malibu and Rincon regular. At 75, she was among the many silver surfers to be featured in the superb documentary ‘Surfing For Life’ by David Brown (1999). The oldest to be profiled, then-94-year-old John ‘Doc’ Ball continued to surf until he passed away in 2001. Eve kept surfing regularly until 85, but is still as active as ever, and visits the beach on good swells, because, as she says, "You're never too old to be stoked!" #nevertoooldtosurf #evefletcher #neverslowdown #surfingforlife

Eve Fletcher (80 in this picture…now approaching 90) at San Onofre, photographed by Rick Rickman for his book ‘The Wonder Years: Portraits of Athletes Who Never Slow Down’. Eve moved with her family to the San Fernando Valley at age 10 and became an excellent swimmer. She worked at Disney's Ink & Paint department, contributing to ‘Cinderella’ and ‘Alice in Wonderland’ and ultimately became an animation supervisor for Disney. Eve started surfing age 30. She soon met the legendary Marge Calhoun, and asked for some advice. "You just paddle and then stand up," said Marge. Eve soon travelled to Hawaii, became a member of the San Onofre Surf Club and a Malibu and Rincon regular. At 75, she was among the many silver surfers to be featured in the superb documentary ‘Surfing For Life’ by David Brown (1999). The oldest to be profiled, then-94-year-old John ‘Doc’ Ball continued to surf until he passed away in 2001. Eve kept surfing regularly until 85, but is still as active as ever, and visits the beach on good swells, because, as she says, "You're never too old to be stoked!" #nevertoooldtosurf #evefletcher #neverslowdown #surfingforlife

Wave refraction in all its glory at classic Rincon pictured by @paulgreene : As swell approaches the coastline and comes into contact with the sea floor, waves start to slow down. Some of the waves' energy is lost through contact with the sea floor. The shallower the water becomes the slower they move. As they slow down they squash together and shorten their wavelength. This process is called shoaling and results in increasing wave height. The steeper the sea floor gradient the more pronounced the wave height will increase. The increase in wave height begins at depths of around one half of the wavelength. As waves move into increasingly shallow water, the bottom of the wave decreases speed. Ultimately the top of the wave overtakes and starts to spill forward - breaking point. Generally a wave will start to break when it reaches a water depth 1.3 times the wave height #waverefraction #shoaling #breakingpoint #surfscience #rincon #paulgreenephotography

Wave refraction in all its glory at classic Rincon pictured by @paulgreene : As swell approaches the coastline and comes into contact with the sea floor, waves start to slow down. Some of the waves' energy is lost through contact with the sea floor. The shallower the water becomes the slower they move. As they slow down they squash together and shorten their wavelength. This process is called shoaling and results in increasing wave height. The steeper the sea floor gradient the more pronounced the wave height will increase. The increase in wave height begins at depths of around one half of the wavelength. As waves move into increasingly shallow water, the bottom of the wave decreases speed. Ultimately the top of the wave overtakes and starts to spill forward - breaking point. Generally a wave will start to break when it reaches a water depth 1.3 times the wave height #waverefraction #shoaling #breakingpoint #surfscience #rincon #paulgreenephotography

Bangladeshi surfer Nasima Akter (pictured by Jordan Dozzi / PhotoSF) who challenged her country’s cultural taboos by swimming and surfing. Nasima, who has been in and out of homelessness, and estranged from her own family since the age of seven, discovered surfing while working on the beach in Cox Bazar. When a group of kids formed a local surf club, Nasima was one of a handful of girls who joined. But after the girls faced disapproval, Nasima was the only one who remained. Because Nasima was separated from her family, she didn’t have the same pressures as girls who wanted to surf but were forbidden by their parents. “When I’m out there I don’t think of anything else,” says Nasima. “I love the sense of being out in the ocean, free of all of the judgments. I leave all that on shore.” Nasima married at 16 and her husband and his family forbid her from surfing. The push and pull is still unresolved. The story is told in a hard hitting documentary by @heatherkessinger called ‘The Most Fearless’ capturing three years of Nasima’s struggle to keep doing what she loves, despite her husband’s insistence that she should not surf. But now lifeguards are being trained in Bangladesh and a new generation of young girls are taking up surfing. Director Heather Kessinger explains, “Nasima broke barriers for these girls. Without her experience it wouldn’t have happened. They are the inheritors of her passion and drive.” #themostfearless

Bangladeshi surfer Nasima Akter (pictured by Jordan Dozzi / PhotoSF) who challenged her country’s cultural taboos by swimming and surfing. Nasima, who has been in and out of homelessness, and estranged from her own family since the age of seven, discovered surfing while working on the beach in Cox Bazar. When a group of kids formed a local surf club, Nasima was one of a handful of girls who joined. But after the girls faced disapproval, Nasima was the only one who remained. Because Nasima was separated from her family, she didn’t have the same pressures as girls who wanted to surf but were forbidden by their parents. “When I’m out there I don’t think of anything else,” says Nasima. “I love the sense of being out in the ocean, free of all of the judgments. I leave all that on shore.” Nasima married at 16 and her husband and his family forbid her from surfing. The push and pull is still unresolved. The story is told in a hard hitting documentary by @heatherkessinger called ‘The Most Fearless’ capturing three years of Nasima’s struggle to keep doing what she loves, despite her husband’s insistence that she should not surf. But now lifeguards are being trained in Bangladesh and a new generation of young girls are taking up surfing. Director Heather Kessinger explains, “Nasima broke barriers for these girls. Without her experience it wouldn’t have happened. They are the inheritors of her passion and drive.” #themostfearless

Blow Top Coda @matt_burgess_photo #mattburgessphoto #surfart #wavescapes #backwash #spray #freedom

Blow Top Coda @matt_burgess_photo #mattburgessphoto #surfart #wavescapes #backwash #spray #freedom

Kai Lewis feeling the magic at Llangennith in South Wales with non-profit charity @surfability_uk who specialise in inclusive surfing lessons, using bespoke equipment to make surfing more accessible for more people. Kai has cerebral palsy, meaning he’s unable to sit or lie flat on a board unaided. “Kai was so desperate to surf, but at the same time the instability of even our biggest boards was making him really nervous,” says Ben Clifford, founder of Surfability. “We started looking around for solutions to make the experience more enjoyable for him.” Fusing ideas developed by the @bestdayfoundation in the US and Welsh charity Cerebra Innovation Centre they designed this beauty with legendary Welsh shaper Roger Cooper. “It was so exciting seeing the whole project come together,” said Ben. “When I called into see Roger glassing the blank it was just this amazing feeling, knowing we were going to get Kai out on the water and riding waves for real. Paddling into that first wave with Kai was incredible,” said Ben. “It was much bigger than anything he’d caught before. The board went amazingly well and we managed to ride the wave all the way in.” “It was amazing,” Kai’s mother Leeann explained. “It opens up so many options. Not just for Kai, but for other children. Hopefully it’s going to get more children out of their wheelchairs. And for a parent of a child in a wheelchair, the more you can get them out, the better.” Surfability is based in Mumbles in Swansea www.surfabilityukcic.org

Kai Lewis feeling the magic at Llangennith in South Wales with non-profit charity @surfability_uk who specialise in inclusive surfing lessons, using bespoke equipment to make surfing more accessible for more people. Kai has cerebral palsy, meaning he’s unable to sit or lie flat on a board unaided. “Kai was so desperate to surf, but at the same time the instability of even our biggest boards was making him really nervous,” says Ben Clifford, founder of Surfability. “We started looking around for solutions to make the experience more enjoyable for him.” Fusing ideas developed by the @bestdayfoundation in the US and Welsh charity Cerebra Innovation Centre they designed this beauty with legendary Welsh shaper Roger Cooper. “It was so exciting seeing the whole project come together,” said Ben. “When I called into see Roger glassing the blank it was just this amazing feeling, knowing we were going to get Kai out on the water and riding waves for real. Paddling into that first wave with Kai was incredible,” said Ben. “It was much bigger than anything he’d caught before. The board went amazingly well and we managed to ride the wave all the way in.” “It was amazing,” Kai’s mother Leeann explained. “It opens up so many options. Not just for Kai, but for other children. Hopefully it’s going to get more children out of their wheelchairs. And for a parent of a child in a wheelchair, the more you can get them out, the better.” Surfability is based in Mumbles in Swansea www.surfabilityukcic.org

Mike Doyle flipping out at Makaha in Hawaii, 1960, pictured by John Severson. Californian Severson founded @surfer_magazine in 1960, and has been a seminal surf photographer, writer, editor, publisher, filmmaker and artist. 'Surf', his first film, came out in 1958, while he was in the military, stationed in Honolulu. 'Surf Safari' followed in 1959, after he returned to California; 'Surf Fever' came out in 1960. Severson was among the first group of surf film makers, along with Bruce Brown, Greg Noll and Bud Browne. In the summer of 1960, as a promotional piece for 'Surf Fever', Severson put together a 36-page horizontally formatted magazine, made up of black-and-white photos, cartoons, a short fiction article, a map of Southern California surf breaks, and a how-to article for beginner surfers. He called it The Surfer, and it sold 5,000 copies. Severson published four editions of what he now called the Surfer Quarterly in 1961, and the magazine grew steadily from issue to issue. Later he hired a number of people who went on to become surf media icons, including cartoonist Rick Griffin, photographers Ron Stoner, Jeff Divine and Art Brewer, writer-editors Drew Kampion and Steve Penman, and graphic designers John Van Hamersveld and Mike Salisbury. The rest is history…

Mike Doyle flipping out at Makaha in Hawaii, 1960, pictured by John Severson. Californian Severson founded @surfer_magazine in 1960, and has been a seminal surf photographer, writer, editor, publisher, filmmaker and artist. 'Surf', his first film, came out in 1958, while he was in the military, stationed in Honolulu. 'Surf Safari' followed in 1959, after he returned to California; 'Surf Fever' came out in 1960. Severson was among the first group of surf film makers, along with Bruce Brown, Greg Noll and Bud Browne. In the summer of 1960, as a promotional piece for 'Surf Fever', Severson put together a 36-page horizontally formatted magazine, made up of black-and-white photos, cartoons, a short fiction article, a map of Southern California surf breaks, and a how-to article for beginner surfers. He called it The Surfer, and it sold 5,000 copies. Severson published four editions of what he now called the Surfer Quarterly in 1961, and the magazine grew steadily from issue to issue. Later he hired a number of people who went on to become surf media icons, including cartoonist Rick Griffin, photographers Ron Stoner, Jeff Divine and Art Brewer, writer-editors Drew Kampion and Steve Penman, and graphic designers John Van Hamersveld and Mike Salisbury. The rest is history…

The mighty Cornishman Martin Pollock @1limbsurfer pictured by @nellysmagicmoments at Steamer Lane, Santa Cruz. Martin grew up in the picturesque village of Mullion on the Lizard peninsula in Cornwall. He joined the British Army in 2008. The following year in Afghanistan he was shot in the leg, but recovered and returned to the front line, serving as a rifleman. Then in 2010 an improvised explosive devise took both of Martin’s legs and part of his left arm. He went home as a triple amputee and tried to carry on with normal life. Martin explained that one of his biggest challenges was getting his prosthetics to fit properly. “I spent years trying to get my leg sockets to fit into the prosthetics. It’s the most important part to be able to walk. If the socket is no good, nothing else matters.” During one of Martin’s rehab visits he heard about a sponsored trip to California hosted by @operationsurf a nonprofit that assists the rehab of wounded active duty serviceman through adaptive surfing. He took up the opportunity and spent a week learning how to sit up on a surfboard and ride waves. “Surfing hasn’t just changed my life, it has become my life. I get real physical benefit and my mental state is better. When I’m in the water I’m freer; it’s easier to move on a surfboard. I am really restricted on land; it’s still an effort on the water but not the same. Surfing has filled a part of me that was missing. I feel connected to nature and the planet. ” Back home Martin has regular sessions with British surfing legend Dan Joel “He’s been a big help, helping me and coaching me… And I must mention Van Curaza who runs Operation Surf in the States; he’s been my buddy since the beginning.” Martin now motivates other vets to surf and supports Operation Surf in the UK #operationsurf #martinpollock #wavesofchange #surf #health #healing #water #waves

The mighty Cornishman Martin Pollock @1limbsurfer pictured by @nellysmagicmoments at Steamer Lane, Santa Cruz. Martin grew up in the picturesque village of Mullion on the Lizard peninsula in Cornwall. He joined the British Army in 2008. The following year in Afghanistan he was shot in the leg, but recovered and returned to the front line, serving as a rifleman. Then in 2010 an improvised explosive devise took both of Martin’s legs and part of his left arm. He went home as a triple amputee and tried to carry on with normal life. Martin explained that one of his biggest challenges was getting his prosthetics to fit properly. “I spent years trying to get my leg sockets to fit into the prosthetics. It’s the most important part to be able to walk. If the socket is no good, nothing else matters.” During one of Martin’s rehab visits he heard about a sponsored trip to California hosted by @operationsurf a nonprofit that assists the rehab of wounded active duty serviceman through adaptive surfing. He took up the opportunity and spent a week learning how to sit up on a surfboard and ride waves. “Surfing hasn’t just changed my life, it has become my life. I get real physical benefit and my mental state is better. When I’m in the water I’m freer; it’s easier to move on a surfboard. I am really restricted on land; it’s still an effort on the water but not the same. Surfing has filled a part of me that was missing. I feel connected to nature and the planet. ” Back home Martin has regular sessions with British surfing legend Dan Joel “He’s been a big help, helping me and coaching me… And I must mention Van Curaza who runs Operation Surf in the States; he’s been my buddy since the beginning.” Martin now motivates other vets to surf and supports Operation Surf in the UK #operationsurf #martinpollock #wavesofchange #surf #health #healing #water #waves

Amber crown by David Orias who maximises slow shutter speeds, precision camera movement and the rich light of dawn or dusk to capture Californian wavescapes to perfection : "I often use the camera to see our world in ways our eyes cannot see. I do this by using long shutter speeds and camera motion to achieve this goal. I am often asked where the colors on my waves come from. I shoot mostly at dawn and the geography of the location allows higher ambient light levels before the full illumination by the sun. Colors are created by different weather conditions, amount of clouds or even smoke in the air from local wildfires which are often prevalent." #watercolor #california #wavescapes #dawn #dusk #davidorias

Amber crown by David Orias who maximises slow shutter speeds, precision camera movement and the rich light of dawn or dusk to capture Californian wavescapes to perfection : "I often use the camera to see our world in ways our eyes cannot see. I do this by using long shutter speeds and camera motion to achieve this goal. I am often asked where the colors on my waves come from. I shoot mostly at dawn and the geography of the location allows higher ambient light levels before the full illumination by the sun. Colors are created by different weather conditions, amount of clouds or even smoke in the air from local wildfires which are often prevalent." #watercolor #california #wavescapes #dawn #dusk #davidorias